The menu at this wainscoted Navy Yard dining room overlooking the Anacostia River relies heavily on easy-to-like New England classics—baked stuffed middlenecks gilded with Parmesan, buttery and mayo-dressed lobster rolls, and crunchy Ipswich clams—that the kitchen executes faithfully. That’s a good thing: Who wants a curve ball on the fried-seafood platter? But the menu’s B-side holds chef Kyle Bailey’s own quirky creations. XO sauce, bacon, and ginger are surprisingly good accompaniments to a round of local oysters, while lemon-anchovy dressing, olives, and capers make for the rare lobster preparation that doesn’t have us craving a cup of drawn butter. If only the gargantuan desserts were designed to impress palates instead of iPhone lenses. Moderate.