100 Very Best Restaurants: #21 – Inferno Pizzeria Napoletana

Soft Serve and Cherries

About Inferno Pizzeria Napoletana

12207 Darnestown Rd
Gaithersburg, MD 20878

Even if you’re the sort who sticks to the neighborhood when it comes to pizza, Tony Conte’s strip-mall spot is worth a journey. Conte escaped the world of fine dining—much of his training happened at New York’s Jean-Georges—and he shapes the dough each night himself. His crusts, with their ragged, super-charred edges are glorious, done up as a Margherita or with vodka sauce and meatballs. Load up on as many starters as you can (especially the beets with preserved-lemon yogurt), don’t miss the soft-serve, and arrive early. The small place doesn’t take reservations, and it shuts down when the dough runs out. Moderate.