100 Very Best 2020Tomato with burrata? Foie gras with brioche? “Been there, done that,” you might think. But at this brass-lined restaurant, Ryan Ratino is turning dining tropes into destination dishes. Take that brioche—it shows up not as toast but as a fluffy steamed bun, accompanying seared slabs of duck liver and dates. Also impressive: Ratino’s handle on an array of influences. A recent dinner moved from a lamb ragu that channeled a trip-worthy osteria to a broccoli pierogi that hat-tipped Ratino’s native Ohio. Order widely—and expect a surprise around the corner. Expensive.
