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Food

Croissant Moment: 6 Creative Takes on the Flaky Pastry Around DC

Local bakers are transforming the classic croissant to dazzle the eyes and the palate.

Written by Nevin Martell
| Published on May 22, 2024
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Photograph by Magdalena Papaioannou.

The Roll

Petite Cerise

location_on 1027 Seventh St., NW

language Website

Photograph by Kimberly Kong.

It takes executive pastry chef Carmelo Gil three days to craft these Insta-ready golden swirls, but they usually sell out in about 90 minutes. Rotating flavors include chocolate; pistachio-raspberry; and yuzu-blueberry topped with a swoosh of torched meringue.

 

The Crookie

Junction Bistro, Bar & Bakery

location_on 5471 Wisconsin Ave., Chevy Chase; 1508 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria

language Website

Photograph courtesy of Junction Bistro, Bar & Bakery.

If Cookie Monster were French, he’d love this marvelous mash-up created by splitting open a baked croissant, packing it with cookie dough, and popping it back into the oven until its core turns gooey. C’est om nom nom nom!

 

The Black-and-White

Nino’s Bakery

location_on 1310 L St., NW

language Website

Striped like a zebra, the fabulously flaky croissant conceals black-sesame paste and almond frangipane, a combination that’s nutty, sweet, and rich with umami.

 

The Riff on a Deli Classic

Yellow

location_on 1524 Wisconsin Ave., NW

language Website

Far right: Yellow’s savory za’atar labne croissant. Photograph by Rey Lopez.

An everything bagel with cream cheese is reinvented as a Levantine-­inspired croissant. It comes speckled with Palestinian za’atar and brimming with smooth housemade labneh.

 

The Pop-Tart

Sunday Morning Bakehouse

location_on 11869 Grand Park Ave., North Bethesda

language Website

Photography by Marj Suarez.

This next-level toaster pastry features croissant dough hiding Spanish chorizo, smoked Gouda, and green onions. Owner/baker Caroline Yi has offered sweeter versions, too, including a marshmallow-­glazed creation with sweet-potato filling.

 

The Farm-to-Table

Seylou Bakery

location_on 926 N St., NW

language Website

Photograph by Allison Heise (@alliheise).

Freshly milled whole-wheat flour and plenty of butter form the dark-brown dough encasing an ever-changing combination of locally sourced greens and cheese, such as red mizuna paired with smoked mozzarella or peppery arugula with provolone.

This article appears in the May 2024 issue of Washingtonian.

More: Food Trendspastries
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Nevin Martell
Contributing Writer

Nevin Martell is a food, travel, and foraging writer whose work has appeared in the Washington Post, Boston Globe, USA Today, Men’s Journal, Fortune, Travel + Leisure, The Daily Beast, BBC, and many other publications. He is author of eight books, including Red Truck Bakery Cookbook: Gold-Standard Recipes from America’s Favorite Rural Bakery, Looking for Calvin and Hobbes: The Unconventional Story of Bill Watterson and His Revolutionary Comic Strip, and The Founding Farmers Cookbook: 100 Recipes From the Restaurant Owned by American Family Farmers. When he isn’t working, he loves spending time with his son, foraging for wild foods, and traveling.

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