What would Jackie’s be if you were to take away its hot-pink
throw pillows, trade its exposed bulbs for “proper” lamps, and transport
it from its row of auto-parts dealers to the ground floor of a hotel? The
answer is that it would be so de-Jackied as to constitute a different
place altogether. But perhaps then many diners wouldn’t persist in seeing
it as merely a fun and funky night out but rather as the serious and
ambitious restaurant it is.
The globally minded menu demonstrates chef Diana
Davila-Boldin’s fluency in a variety of accents. (Her Mexican cooking is
the finest in the area, with flavors that run deep and true.)
Of late, a preciousness has crept in and prices have edged
higher. We’d hate to see Jackie’s abandon its distinctive niche—there
aren’t enough restaurants as it is that take playfulness so seriously.
Don’t miss: Mini-burgers with pimiento cheese; truffled
cheese fries; sous-vide chicken wings; chicken Milanesa sandwich;
cornmeal-fried tilapia with sweet-potato bread; grilled lobster with
coconut rice; Autumn Apple dessert. Open: Monday through
Saturday for dinner (cafe menu on Monday), Sunday for brunch and dinner.