Ryan Ratino’s culinary career didn’t start out the most auspiciously: His first gig was at the Playboy Mansion, where work consisted of cooking the same breakfast day after day for Hugh Hefner. Ratino has come a long way. The former Ripple chef has created a tiny, surrealist wonderland on 14th Street, where moss covers one wall and the excellent cocktails are served in glass fishes and bees. His food, which alludes to his Midwestern roots and love of French and Italian cuisine, is daring, complicated, and—when it works, as with his foie gras “PB&J” with warm madeleines—beautiful. Expensive. Also great: Buckwheat pancakes with parsley-root ice cream and roe; chestnut agnolotti; pastrami beets; 65-day-aged entrecôte; tropical ambrosia.