So many tasting menus escalate from light to heavy. The beauty of chefs Piter and Handry Tjan’s Japanese production is its lyrical cadence. Sit at the intimate counter inside Sushiko as one of the chef brothers leads a 12-to-15-course journey—we prefer the fish-and-meat version over the vegan menu—swinging from earthy (apple-smoked monkfish liver and caviar) to delicate (dashi-poached cabbage with cured roe) and back again. The sushi interlude is filled with little luxuries such as an omelet showered in truffles. The final course, a foie gras panna cotta, boasts a fitting title: “the happiness finale.” Very expensive.
Also great: Wagyu katsu-sando; soy-marinated tuna; seared salmon belly; roasted green tea.